Méta: Do you have trouble knowing which collar corresponds to which occasion? Here are some guidelines to help you make the right choices!
The guide to shirt collars
Not all shirts are created equal. Some are suitable for special occasions and others can be worn in all circumstances. The main element that makes the difference is the shirt collar. This part of the garment, which has constantly evolved over time, defines the style of your shirt. What are the different types of existing collars? When to wear them? And how do you choose the right one for you? That’s what we’ll see right now!
Shirt collars: a wide range of models
There are several models of collars, from the most classic to the most modern.
There are several types:
- the French collar: is characterized by reduced opening and close points. It adapts to different tie knots and bow ties;
- the Windsor (or Italian) collar: displays a pronounced opening. The large space between its points makes it possible to wear large tie knots or a bow tie;
- the small collar: it looks like the Italian model with shorter points.
- the cutaway: with a more pronounced opening than the Italian cut, it is suitable for wide tie knots;
- the American buttoned: fixed to the shirt by buttons, it is incompatible with the bow tie.
Here we have:
- the reverse: unlike the classics, it has flaps that fold inwards. It does not require a tie;
- the pin collar: its two points are connected by a pin which slightly lifts the tie for a chic effect;
- the English collar: its two flaps are connected by tabs that close with a button. It is worn with a preferably thin tie;
- the round neck: without points, it has rounded ends and can be worn plain or with an accessory;
- the broken one: straight and short, this collar has flaps only at the front. It requires a bow tie;
- the Tunisian: short without flaps, typical of summer shirts. He does it without a tie;
- Mao collar: short without flaps, it has a slight space between its two sides. He doesn’t take a tie;
- the officer collar: it is similar to the previous model, with the only difference being that the two sides overlap.
Which shirt collar for which occasion?
Let’s start with the most casual, the Tunisian collar, it is ideal for short summer outings such as a visit to a museum. Then, in the relaxed register, we have short collars like the mao and the officer, but also the reverse. Worn without a tie, French and Italian collars adapt to this style.
In the professional context, everything depends on the dress code in force in your environment. But French, Italian, American and cutaway collars are generally suitable for the office. They will be embellished if necessary with a tie for a more formal style. The English model can also be integrated into your professional wardrobe.
For festive occasions, official ceremonies or formal evenings, you can afford the bow tie with a broken collar. Basically elitist clothing, it can however be found at reasonable prices on a site like atlasformen.fr. The bow tie can also be used for less conventional occasions with French or round collars.
English or pin cuts are also suitable for festive occasions. With a tie, the shirt pin brings a great distinction to your outfit for special occasions such as a wedding.
How to choose the collar that suits you?
It is wise to take your morphology into account to choose the collar that suits you best.
A round face conveys a certain softness and would benefit from being lengthened by collars with pronounced tabs like the French cut. For this morphology, a slightly open model or a buttoned collar is also a good choice. The round neck is on the other hand to be avoided. The latter is more suitable for an angular face that it would soften. A slightly open model like the Italian collar is also a good choice here.
Models with a large opening and small points such as the small collar or the cutaway will restore a certain balance for small, thin or elongated faces.
For square or triangular faces, a closed cut with close points like the French collar will highlight them more. In any case, it should be borne in mind that the more a face is elongated, the less the shirt legs should be.
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